Marshmallows

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEafRQ1njzG_FAPasR6h7EZSUFjEt237qPIef-SKbIoyLDxAUUIFw1F0a4kp5LaBJ9xGo49Mm1EskzXRILrgSV01Oak-42dEkYPdQkyYRBQBUZpZpxUaoC5XODQI5xjVSuKYcM6CA_9yMR/s1600/smores.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEafRQ1njzG_FAPasR6h7EZSUFjEt237qPIef-SKbIoyLDxAUUIFw1F0a4kp5LaBJ9xGo49Mm1EskzXRILrgSV01Oak-42dEkYPdQkyYRBQBUZpZpxUaoC5XODQI5xjVSuKYcM6CA_9yMR/s320/smores.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />On one of the delightful reruns of Julia Child shows, she and Jacques Pepin make a turkey dinner with all the traditional side dishes. As she heaps sweet potatoes into a serving dish, she says something like this to the audience, "These are plain mashed sweet potatoes, but you could make candied sweet potatoes with marshmallows. I love candied sweet potatoes."<br /><br />Pepin says "I don't like marshmallows," and she answers, "Of course not, you're French."<br /><br />I've been aware for ages that French people generally don't like marshmallows -- I've probably already mentioned somewhere in this blog how a French friend trying a toasted marshmallow said "It's like a jellyfish."<br /><br />But here's the odd thing: the French invented marshmallows as we know them today, which in French are called <i>guimauves</i>. According to "<a href="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2011/01/its-a-marshmallow-world/">It's a Marshmallow World</a>," in <i>Smithsonian:</i> "The modern marshmallow confection is a mid-19th century French invention and was a cross between medicinal lozenge and bonbon."<br /><br />Like the English word <i>marshmallow,</i> the French <i>guimauve</i> is the name of a marsh plant whose root produces a sticky substance. An extract of this substance was originally used to provide the unique texture of marshmallows -- sticky but firm, I guess you could say. Gelatine was soon substituted for the extract of plant roots, and for a long time, the classic marshmallow or guimauve was made by confectioners. I'm curious how its popularity grew in the US while obviously declining or maybe never taking off in France. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPCqjn88bX6dLvWdtWYcUUn7svyA_A_GTEjC4hsQ1F3o3x-7kAW4jiyhnieai1kFrKS9gp_TWz9kTP8KXpuuadFVXpqZRbeQCRcHpUTKKrEpd6B8ivVjvSZY8Hd0-eFlEhuV0l9lKrdasU/s1600/Althaea_officinalis_-_K%25C3%25B6hler%25E2%2580%2593s_Medizinal-Pflanzen-008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPCqjn88bX6dLvWdtWYcUUn7svyA_A_GTEjC4hsQ1F3o3x-7kAW4jiyhnieai1kFrKS9gp_TWz9kTP8KXpuuadFVXpqZRbeQCRcHpUTKKrEpd6B8ivVjvSZY8Hd0-eFlEhuV0l9lKrdasU/s320/Althaea_officinalis_-_K%25C3%25B6hler%25E2%2580%2593s_Medizinal-Pflanzen-008.jpg" width="238" /></a></div>Use of the marshmallow plant (illustration at right from Wikipedia -- scientific name <i>Althaea officinalis</i>) has a long history. <i>Smithsonian:</i> "Greek physician Dioscorides advised that marshmallow extracts be used in treating wounds and inflammations. During the Renaissance, extracts from the plant’s roots and leaves were used for medicinal purposes, namely as an anti-inflamatory and soothing agent for sore throats." Wikipedia says that the Romans considered them a delicacy.<br /><br />Today's <i>New York Times Magazine</i> article "<a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2012/09/16/magazine/who-made-that-marshmallow.html?_r=1&ref=magazine">Who Made that Marshmallow?</a>" contains the most recent history of how marshmallows are made. The 1950s saw the development of industrial processes to "jet puff" the marshmallows (note the words "Jet Puffed" on the marshmallow bag in the top photo). An invention created a series of machines that forced a "marshmallow slurry through tubes, subjected it to blasts of gas at 200 pounds per square inch, extruded it into long tails and then cut it into bite-size chunks." <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Rab6SRIRvKut2dN6Uislxkn1HZa24tTah5dRA81eKMgsEGn6e4d1gT8HNXeQ3Up8r3rQcB2AhLGx8mYKBx8H8v0HJhQCWAMs9ihUWwHtKm9fd5RdmY839sRE8_NJVp3yVbiyN4ZFunDz/s1600/mallomars.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Rab6SRIRvKut2dN6Uislxkn1HZa24tTah5dRA81eKMgsEGn6e4d1gT8HNXeQ3Up8r3rQcB2AhLGx8mYKBx8H8v0HJhQCWAMs9ihUWwHtKm9fd5RdmY839sRE8_NJVp3yVbiyN4ZFunDz/s320/mallomars.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />The traditional mixture of sugar, egg white, and gelatine required a long and labor-intensive treatment to produce marshmallows, though marshmallows appear to have been mass produced early in the 20th century, when products like Mallomars were introduced. A brief <a href="http://www.slashfood.com/2006/08/18/the-history-of-smores/">history of Smores</a> says that camping was growing in popularity and the ingredients -- marshmallows, graham crackers, and chocolate bars -- were quite portable. I remember carefully packed boxes of Campfire marshmallows with two layers of around 10 marshmallows each, probably when they were not quite as speedily and cheaply produced.<br /><br />So I wonder, what were the French doing in 1927 when the <i>Girl Scout Handbook</i> published the first recipe for S'Mores? In 1919 when "a booklet from the Barrett Company on Sweet Potato and Yams ... suggests adding marshmallows to candied yams"? (Referenced <a href="http://blogs.loc.gov/inside_adams/2010/11/a-sweet-potato-history/">here</a>) In 1913 when Nabisco made the first Mallomars? What about Whippets, moon pies, Peeps, and those jellyfish-like toasted marshmallows? I guess they were eating mousse au chocolate, grilling steaks, and maybe avoiding the yams as well as the candied part.<br /><br />And the French still hand-make their marshmallows -- for a photo see <a href="http://www.eatlivetravelwrite.com/2012/08/travel-tuesday-a-sugar-walk-of-the-marais-with-la-cuisine-paris/">this blog post.</a>

Marshmallows

On one of the delightful reruns of Julia Child shows, she and Jacques Pepin make a turkey dinner with all the traditional side dishes. As sh...

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Manifold Cooking

At today's Old Car Festival in Greenfield Village, I learned about a cookbox that was made, back in the day, to fit over the exhaust manifold of a Ford Model T. You can see the metal box just behind the headlamp here:<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/7967105794/" title="manifold-cooker 7 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="manifold-cooker 7" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8169/7967105794_100a1db0ca.jpg" width="500" /></a><br /><br />At the demo in front of the reviewing stand the beautifully dressed passenger in the car got out, lifted the side of the hood (the Model T had a sort of fold-up hood on either side of the engine), and spooned up some soup to show the crowd -- note the spoon in the Flapper's hand:<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/7967102166/" title="manifold-cooker 1 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="manifold-cooker 1" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8031/7967102166_5c66c11171.jpg" width="500" /></a><br /><br />Cooking under the hood of a Model T involved understanding the very high heat that could result from the operation of the engine, and gauging how far to go and at what speed you should travel in order to get the best result from your recipe. The announcer noted that in fact, some recipes suggested going up hills to increase the temperature. Evidently this was a popular part of the entertaining new sport of driving around in a Model T around 100 years or so ago. The car in the photo is a 1927 model.<br /><br />Here is a sample of a couple of modern recipes for this cooker, from a <a href="http://www.frankstpartsltd.com/default_files/Page299.htm">website</a> I found (maybe it's even the website of the people in the photo):<br /><blockquote class="tr_bq"><span lang="en-US" style="font-weight: bold;">Rhubarb Ice cream topping</span><br />Line the cooker with foil ..., slice fresh rhubarb into small pieces, add a handful or two of sugar, drive to an ice cream store at least 20 miles away, buy a dish of ice cream, put the topping on it and enjoy the best topping yet cooked on a Model T manifold.</blockquote><blockquote class="tr_bq"><span lang="en-US"><b>Meat Loaf</b> <br />(this is </span><span lang="en-US" style="text-decoration: underline;">the</span><span lang="en-US"> most popular recipe we have made on the manifold) <br />Note this is also known as ‘Greasy Fan Belt Goulash’</span><span lang="en-US"><br />Mix one pound of lean ground beef with one package of frozen Potatoes O’Brian, one package of frozen Mexicorn and a jar of Salsa (you choose mild, medium, hot, or acetylene torch-like).  I always dump all the ingredients in a big zip lock bag to mix them…..since my hands are always greasy. <br /></span><span lang="en-US">Anyway, mix well and then dump it all into a big piece of wide Aluminum foil and wrap it into a loaf that will fit into the cooker.  Drive about 40 miles or so and it will be done.  <br />This recipe is so good that dogs and people will follow you.</span></blockquote>Here is another view of the car at the reviewing stand and the Flapper, spoon still in hand: <br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/7967102794/" title="manifold-cooker 2 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="manifold-cooker 2" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8320/7967102794_e234967c63.jpg" width="500" /></a>

Manifold Cooking

At today's Old Car Festival in Greenfield Village, I learned about a cookbox that was made, back in the day, to fit over the exhaust man...

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Food in Poetry

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWO6fYaKDZC2bJYipLi1R05lrxPWtfBYTSeqNs01pOEzFozpw_fW7uSGuXohyphenhyphenf3KsisgEBK_feAUYvSC8aYsb7m5_J4B1Ocsl-g9RO-xRbwIKyl_5anzffjWu1ak71m-CLh5dJAZNCJe3M/s1600/Screen+shot+2012-09-05+at+4.29.39+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWO6fYaKDZC2bJYipLi1R05lrxPWtfBYTSeqNs01pOEzFozpw_fW7uSGuXohyphenhyphenf3KsisgEBK_feAUYvSC8aYsb7m5_J4B1Ocsl-g9RO-xRbwIKyl_5anzffjWu1ak71m-CLh5dJAZNCJe3M/s320/Screen+shot+2012-09-05+at+4.29.39+PM.png" width="213" /></a></div>I often write about food in novels or other books I have read. I have just found a Poetry Magazine <a href="http://www.poetryfoundation.org/browse/#subject=30">collection of poems that feature food</a>. Other than the famous one about plums by William Carlos Williams ("This is just to say"), or the Ogden Nash short poems published in the book depicted at right like the one about the parsnip, I couldn't easily think of any food poems. I'm not that much of a poetry reader, as it  happens; however, several of these poems appealed to me.<br /><br />Being a fan of Gertrude Stein, I enjoyed the poem titled "Christian Bérard." I already know quite a bit about what Gertrude Stein liked to eat, because of the <i>Alice B. Toklas Cookbook</i>. Here are the first lines of the poem:<br /><br /><h3>Christian Bérard</h3><br />BY GERTRUDE STEIN<br /><br />Eating is her subject.<br />While eating is her subject.<br />Where eating is her subject.<br />Withdraw whether it is eating which is her subject. Literally while she ate eating is her subject. Afterwards too and in between. This is an introduction to what she ate.<br />She ate a pigeon and a soufflé.<br />That was on one day.<br />She ate a thin ham and its sauce.<br />That was on another day.<br />She ate desserts.<br />That had been on one day.<br />She had fish grouse and little cakes that was before that day.<br />She had breaded veal and grapes that was on that day.<br />After that she ate every day.<br />Very little but very good.<br />She ate very well that day.<br />What is the difference between steaming and roasting, she ate it cold because of Saturday.<br />Remembering potatoes because of preparation for part of the day.<br />There is a difference in preparation of cray-fish which makes a change in their fish for instance.<br />What was it besides bread.<br />Why is eating her subject. There are reasons why eating is her subject.<br />...<br /><br /><b>Two other poems that I liked</b> are by poets I was previously unfamiliar with: Paul Blackburn and Victor Hernandez Cruz. And there are so many more!<br /><br />The beginnings of these poems:<br /><h3>The Café Filtre</h3><br />BY PAUL BLACKBURN<br /><br />Slowly and with persistence<br />he eats away at the big steak,<br />gobbles up the asparagus, its<br />butter & salt &  root taste,<br />drinks at a glass of red wine, and carefully<br />taking his time, mops up<br />the gravy with bread—<br />The top of the café filtre is<br />copper, passively shines back, & between<br />mouthfuls of steak, sips of wine,<br />he remembers<br />at intervals to<br />with the flat of his hand<br />the top removed,<br />bang<br />at the apparatus,<br />create the suction that<br />the water will<br />fall through<br />more quickly<br />Across the tiles of the floor, the<br />cat comes to the table : again.<br />“I’ve already given you one piece of steak,<br />what do you want from me now? Love?”<br />...<br /><br /><h3>Red Beans</h3><br />BY VICTOR HERNÁNDEZ CRUZ<br /><br />Next to white rice<br />it looks like coral<br />sitting next to snow<br /><br />Hills of starch<br />border<br />The burnt sienna<br />of irony<br /><br />Azusenas being chased by<br />the terra cotta feathers<br />of a rooster<br />...

Food in Poetry

I often write about food in novels or other books I have read. I have just found a Poetry Magazine  collection of poems that feature food . ...

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Tarte au Citron

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggk-MHpLTd6DbfvMFBwD_qL1SjmewEQkUybLauyMAiFcaRj5rBUJj9TCuvfgF5z8vgBW2GinjgIPYoX_slZOjHOxKFrJtIUtKmpoHrX2ZRB8XoERYlQq7blwxmstaX2_yIEgJ0VBUip23n/s1600/citron1109.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggk-MHpLTd6DbfvMFBwD_qL1SjmewEQkUybLauyMAiFcaRj5rBUJj9TCuvfgF5z8vgBW2GinjgIPYoX_slZOjHOxKFrJtIUtKmpoHrX2ZRB8XoERYlQq7blwxmstaX2_yIEgJ0VBUip23n/s320/citron1109.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />My project: to master a recipe for French-style Tarte au Citron. Above: my first effort. The crust and sugared lemons on top were based on this: <a href="http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2011/sep/22/cook-perfect-tarte-au-citron">How to cook perfect tarte au citron</a>. I used a Julia Child recipe for the filling. The crust, especially, needs work, but the result was quite delicious.

Tarte au Citron

My project: to master a recipe for French-style Tarte au Citron. Above: my first effort. The crust and sugared lemons on top were based on t...

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Patty-Pan Squash

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM4shYLtWIO9d8OzV_1iZqrdnDxbsa05rYOfUHWGr33c4s2urss24kmYf66KkHremGwTG2rR9Kqx2aD2Om2YfNDO8K4AEUqPLxVQbDDcWPabMTTMzfpBdy6IJO756qQZj83mY0KOrLPvwa/s1600/squash.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM4shYLtWIO9d8OzV_1iZqrdnDxbsa05rYOfUHWGr33c4s2urss24kmYf66KkHremGwTG2rR9Kqx2aD2Om2YfNDO8K4AEUqPLxVQbDDcWPabMTTMzfpBdy6IJO756qQZj83mY0KOrLPvwa/s320/squash.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />For dinner: stuffed little patty-pan squash. Inspired by the <a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2012/08/what-did-shakespeare-eat.html">Shakespeare cookbook</a>, I spiced the breadcrumb, onion, and insides-of-squash filling with fresh thyme (also from the market), nutmeg, lemon zest, and raisins. It wasn't a Shakespeare recipe, though, just an improvisation.

Patty-Pan Squash

For dinner: stuffed little patty-pan squash. Inspired by the Shakespeare cookbook , I spiced the breadcrumb, onion, and insides-of-squash fi...

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Ann Arbor: The Farmers Market

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/7888231524/" title="farmersmkt1101 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="farmersmkt1101" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8314/7888231524_4aa93e5170.jpg" width="500" /></a><br /><br />The farmers market  here is a bit sad this year because so much of the tree fruit was destroyed by an early warming period in March followed by bad frosts last April. Moreover, the drought is serious; some farmers have been able to water their crops, but others are suffering.<br /><br />I talked to one farmer who said that throughout July, he drove 5 miles to a city water supply and brought a 3000 gallon tank of water back to irrigate his tomatoes, peppers, and other field crops, supplementing his well. I have no idea of the cost tradeoffs or efforts this implies. In sum, the weather of all sorts, mostly bad, has also caused prices to increase.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/7888232082/" title="farmersmkt1096 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="farmersmkt1096" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8309/7888232082_deb2963a87.jpg" width="375" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/7888232468/" title="farmersmkt1094 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="farmersmkt1094" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8436/7888232468_eae75ae066.jpg" width="375" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/7888232970/" title="farmersmkt1092 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="farmersmkt1092" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8181/7888232970_6df8530552.jpg" width="500" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/7888233982/" title="farmersmkt1105 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="farmersmkt1105" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8036/7888233982_d52ea6ef5f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br /><br />This was my first trip to the market for the year. The plums, peaches, tomatoes, peppers, and herbs I bought were delicious for lunch; we'll also be eating eggplant, patty-pan squash, early apples, and a few other items this week.

Ann Arbor: The Farmers Market

The farmers market  here is a bit sad this year because so much of the tree fruit was destroyed by an early warming period in March followed...

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What did Shakespeare eat?

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEish8tQAhMQCUMI1ZMJ0oCNhGxtJblJNiUfqR2UFT8Lj0O2GtpUZcUQIF7f9hthibQDoJf8EP9Ozs15ZHQfkKlmtsWNdAjLpJczWX03gXg9lM1X_akqNbZ2GV7VHqdIQf9V_jH7x_38iBA7/s1600/shakespeare-cookbook1085.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEish8tQAhMQCUMI1ZMJ0oCNhGxtJblJNiUfqR2UFT8Lj0O2GtpUZcUQIF7f9hthibQDoJf8EP9Ozs15ZHQfkKlmtsWNdAjLpJczWX03gXg9lM1X_akqNbZ2GV7VHqdIQf9V_jH7x_38iBA7/s320/shakespeare-cookbook1085.jpg" width="258" /></a></div><br /><br />What did Shakespeare eat?<br /><br />Definitive answers here: <i>The Shakespeare Cookbook</i> by Andrew Dalby and Maureen Dalby, published by the British Museum Press this year. Andrew Dalby is a culinary historian, so this is a work of scholarship, using contemporary cookbooks and dietary advice books that were in print during Shakespeare's lifetime. I had no idea how many such works existed!<br /><br />Another surprise: many recipes are simple and close to modern cooking. For example, chicken fricassee described on page 54 is almost exactly the way I sometimes use up leftover chicken, though the modern version often includes pimentos (a variety of capsicum peppers, which Dalby says hadn't reached England from the New World yet) and the Shakespeare-era version uses the spice mace, which isn't on my spice shelf.<br /><br />A variety of pies of all sizes combine meat, fruit, suet, and spice into a preparation that predates our mince pies. The small ones are called "chewets" and contain saffron and ground ginger along with cooked meat. If I could find suet, I would be interested to try pies or chewets, as I have always liked that funny packaged mincemeat that is featured at Christmas and Thanksgiving, and I would like to meet its ancestor. (If I could find a swan, there's another recipe in the book I might try too.)<br /><br />Similarly there are recipes for a sort of meatball including meat-egg-dried fruit and flavored with mace. Large ones were called Farts, small ones were called Fysts. I definitely plan to try these, as the modernized recipe doesn't require suet at all. And the name is so amusing! Dalby doesn't offer any word history on this. Although there are many references on the Web to the original recipe, a quick look didn't offer me any insight into why this word meant little meatballs in Elizabethan times.<br /><br />The explanation of what the word "cake" meant to Shakespeare is very interesting. "A cake, to Shakespeare, was a concept that overlapped with the modern English cake but didn't coincide with it." (page 70)<br /><br />So, the authors point out, cakes could sweet or savory in the famous line<br /><blockquote class="tr_bq">"Dost thou think, because thou art virtuous, that there shall be no more cakes and ale?" </blockquote>The word cake could refer to a loaf cake, a tea-cake, or a waffle. It could mean a biscuit. (I think this is the British biscuit, which in America we call a cookie -- the problem of terminology didn't stop in Shakespeare's time.) The book's cake recipe is for Barm Brak, made from white-bread dough, sugar, lard, eggs, raisins, and sweet spices.<br /><br />Every section of the book has a discussion of a food reference in a particular Shakespeare play, with elaborations from the literature of Shakespeare's contemporaries as well as contemporary food sources. Almost every page includes an illustration, also contemporary to Shakespeare. And every section offers a wide range of interesting references and information, as well as at least one recipe quoted directly from the sources and then a modernized version. A fantastic book, for which I'm grateful to my friend Sheila!

What did Shakespeare eat?

What did Shakespeare eat? Definitive answers here: The Shakespeare Cookbook by Andrew Dalby and Maureen Dalby, published by the British Mus...

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