"Cookbooks as Literature"

I just read a really good article about cookbook authors: "<a href="http://www.theawl.com/2011/09/soul-food-cookbooks-as-literature">Soul Food: Cookbooks As Literature</a>" by Maria Bustillos. Included for a detailed review: Alexandre Dumas for his <span style="font-style:italic;">Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine</span>, Elizabeth David; Irma S. Rombauer, the original author of <span style="font-style:italic;">The Joy of Cooking; </span>and Black Panther activist Bobby Seale for <i>Barbeque'N with Bobby. </i> She mentions others as she describes these favorites. She also singles out a few cookbook authors who provide a less interesting and appealing persona, notably Martha Stewart. Bustillos selects apt quotations and recipes to illustrate her descriptions of these authors, which makes this a very readable and enjoyable piece of writing.<br /><br />In summing up her ideas on cookboos as literature, Bustillos writes: "Dumas, and Elizabeth David and Julia Child, Marcel Boulestin and Alice B. Toklas and Bobby Seale and so many others, have the eating of soup figured out and a good deal besides; as literary artists and beyond this, as artists of savoir faire, of life itself. Given that one must eat, how then to do it? Historians and philosophers as well as poets tend to come up short where advice on questions urgent and as homely as these is required."

"Cookbooks as Literature"

I just read a really good article about cookbook authors: "Soul Food: Cookbooks As Literature" by Maria Bustillos. Included for a detailed review: Alexandre Dumas for his Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine, Elizabeth David; Irma S. Rombauer, the original author of The Joy of Cooking; and Black Panther ac…

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Good Eats

Last night my book club met at my house to discuss <span style="font-style:italic;">Just Kids</span> by Patti Smith. We found the book very appealing and fascinating, and discussed it non-stop, except for eating the refreshments that I made. One funny memory that she relates in her memoir was of meeting Allen Ginsberg. He appeared just as she realized that she didn't have enough money for her sandwich at the automat -- he bought her the sandwich and a cup of coffee and sat down with her. After a while he asked "Wait, are you a girl?" She's a girl. <div><br /></div><div>"I thought you were a pretty boy," he explained. </div><div><br /></div><div>"Do I have to pay you for the sandwich?" she asked.</div><div><br /></div><div>"No, my mistake."<br /><div><br /></div><div>However, food wasn't really a theme of the book. Much of the time in her early life as a New York art scene wannabe, Patti Smith didn't have much to eat. She does often mention eating at the automat -- things like mac and cheese, or a sandwich on a poppy-seed roll. Not much inspiration for refreshments. </div><div><br /></div><div>Smith mentions that when she and her lover Robert Mapplethorpe had a bit of money they would buy a bag of Mallomars. I decided that would be my one literary menu choice. When I went to the market, though, I found out that Mallomars are seasonal! The chocolate is too melty in summer. So I bought Canadian Whippets, which are similar. </div><div><br /></div><div>In order to make this a scholarly post, I read the Wikipedia entry on <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chocolate-coated_marshmallow_treats">Chocolate-coated marshmallow treats</a>. And learned more than any sane person should know about Mallomars, Whippets, and similar confections from Israel, Denmark, England, and even the Phillipines as well as other places. Turns out Mallomars are really a New York thing: 70% are sold there. If you want to know more, you can read the article and the many places that it diligently links to.</div><div><br />A couple of people suggested that the might like recipes for the non-themed but seasonal food I made for the meeting. First, the healthy parts:<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/6145693126/" title="eats7685 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="eats7685" height="479" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6066/6145693126_a7cf02ccd1_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />Not-quite caprese salad. Do you get tired of the classic combo: fresh mozzarella, basil, tomatoes, and vinaigrette? I've had it quite often this tomato season. I love it, but wanted some variety for my tomatoes, so I used a goat-cheese log and chopped dill and parsley, and a few black olives too.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/6145141965/" title="eats7687 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="eats7687" height="480" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6163/6145141965_d474705f29_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />Carrot salad, but not cloyingly sweet, rather savory. It's similar to a Moroccan-Jewish (and also Israeli) recipe. Simple: grated carrots and vinaigrette made from oil, lemon juice, rice vinegar, cumin, Spanish smoked paprika, ground coriander, a crushed garlic clove, and a parsley garnish. Around half a teaspoon of each ground spice for around 1/2 cup oil and around 1/4 cup combined lemon juice and vinegar.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/6145142143/" title="eats7688 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="eats7688" height="480" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6063/6145142143_48d1c35604_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />Again I made peach-plum cake from the Polish cookbook. For the recipe see <a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2011/06/picnic-game-from-louise.html">this post from last June</a>. Nearby you can see a watermelon and pineapple fruit bowl and the Whippets.</div><div><br /></div><div>And one more picture of current cooking ...<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/6145142383/" title="eats7691 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="eats7691" height="479" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6073/6145142383_0822e7dbf1_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br /><br /></div><div>Tonight: steak on the grill with great grill marks. Thanks, Lenny.</div></div>

Good Eats

Last night my book club met at my house to discuss Just Kids by Patti Smith. We found the book very appealing and fascinating, and discussed it non-stop, except for eating the refreshments that I made. One funny memory that she relates in her memoir was of meeting Allen Ginsberg. He appeared just as…

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Hunger

<blockquote>"Hunger is an unforgivable disease because it is the easiest one to cure. It is devastating to wake up in the morning and look east, west, south and north and see that there is nothing green that you can chew. During a drought everything goes yellow and dry. ...<br /><br />"Hunger is dehumanizing. It gets to a level where you do not know how you will survive and you will do anything for a simple kernel of corn."</blockquote><br /><br />So writes Peter Kimeu in "<a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2011/09/11/opinion/sunday/remembering-a-hungry-childhood.html?ref=opinion">Remembering a Hungry Childhood</a>" an op-ed in today's <span style="font-style:italic;">New York Times</span>. It's a powerful essay: almost unbearable to read. Such suffering is outside of my own experience and that of almost everyone I know well. Kimeu doesn't ask the reader to take responsibility for his past, but his last words are: "It is incumbent on all of us to band together and fight this very curable disease. No child on earth should ever have to sleep like that."<br /><br />But what can we do? I feel totally helpless to make a response, as I don't see any reasonable charitable, governmental, or global political measures being offered that would effectively address hunger on a global scale.

Hunger

"Hunger is an unforgivable disease because it is the easiest one to cure. It is devastating to wake up in the morning and look east, west, south and north and see that there is nothing green that you can chew. During a drought everything goes yellow and dry. ..."Hunger is dehumanizing. It gets to a …

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Labor Day Picnic

South Lake, Michigan, Labor Day 2011 at Nat's house. Too cool to go out on the lake, but we saw two sandhill cranes walking on the beach -- actually the way they lifted their long legs simultaneously looked more like marching than like walking. We had a big picnic which everyone collaborated on. Appetizers from Greek Town; grilled vegetables, peaches, and chicken-sausage skewers; watermelon salad; caprese salad; fresh corn kernels; and dessert of blondies, plum cake, and rosemary shortbread. Did I forget anything? Wine, beer, coffee...<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/6118376107/" title="laborday7657 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="laborday7657" height="480" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6210/6118376107_3258ac2d00_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br /><br /><div>Sausage and chicken skewers with fresh herbs & peaches, ready to grill</div><div><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/6118375791/" title="laborday7673 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="laborday7673" height="480" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6187/6118375791_5f5c2a0991_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><br /><br /></div><div>Adam, Kaywin, and Lenny grilling.</div><div><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/6118920974/" title="laborday7665 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="laborday7665" height="180" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6182/6118920974_5de02f0cd2_m.jpg" width="240" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/6118920548/" title="laborday7659 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="laborday7659" height="180" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6190/6118920548_4c0347a7c2_m.jpg" width="240" /></a><br /><br /></div><div>Indoor cooks Adam and Nat ... missed a photo of Carol making the watermelon salad</div><div><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/6118375455/" title="laborday7678 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="laborday7678" height="375" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6194/6118375455_0741d2f79d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/6118375611/" title="laborday7675 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="laborday7675" height="375" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6203/6118375611_dd0a8737dc.jpg" width="500" /></a><br /><br /></div><div>Dinner is ready.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/6118376821/" title="laborday7649 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="laborday7649" height="75" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6184/6118376821_18c06d835b_t.jpg" width="100" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/6118376555/" title="laborday7648 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="laborday7648" height="75" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6073/6118376555_b45a2ea971_t.jpg" width="100" /></a></div><br /><br />Blondies and plum cake.

Labor Day Picnic

South Lake, Michigan, Labor Day 2011 at Nat's house. Too cool to go out on the lake, but we saw two sandhill cranes walking on the beach -- actually the way they lifted their long legs simultaneously looked more like marching than like walking. We had a big picnic which everyone collaborated on. App…

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Plum Chutney

Looking just like the <a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2007/09/plum-chutney-recipe.html">plum chutney I have made in the past</a> -- <br /> <br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkyLBjX9uO7ZR8VDj7x6SYKuxn5STjXz7yKNMM8gCDqnObufwGQe-7PVINP_5Ly2JtXPkBh7wzLNAH8EcVncO6wwyzPxec0JRTMeYB_H_JRowiNOy5nm-M7AAnEyX3mbyNZnphYsmlDf-z/s1600/laborday7645.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5648634316380717474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkyLBjX9uO7ZR8VDj7x6SYKuxn5STjXz7yKNMM8gCDqnObufwGQe-7PVINP_5Ly2JtXPkBh7wzLNAH8EcVncO6wwyzPxec0JRTMeYB_H_JRowiNOy5nm-M7AAnEyX3mbyNZnphYsmlDf-z/s400/laborday7645.jpg" style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" /></a> <br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCxYi1K-0FCZ7z3DoPAJFfxo8ri_xnEQJMJ8sRWTuAan6MJHMnJpL5tVXo0opkOLurwhGkeatGqkZnu3sz2pep39AfK6ylsvVhE3lLA0OVqbwDl6l4bV4W60NnifbbUTjAB8AhfF2vzwv_/s1600/laborday7647.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5648634309165475170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCxYi1K-0FCZ7z3DoPAJFfxo8ri_xnEQJMJ8sRWTuAan6MJHMnJpL5tVXo0opkOLurwhGkeatGqkZnu3sz2pep39AfK6ylsvVhE3lLA0OVqbwDl6l4bV4W60NnifbbUTjAB8AhfF2vzwv_/s400/laborday7647.jpg" style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px;" /></a> <br />

Plum Chutney

Looking just like the plum chutney I have made in the past -- …

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What did Inspector French eat?

Freeman Wills Crofts is the creator of Scotland Yard Inspector French, who appears in a number of novels. I heard of his novels in an <a href="http://harpers.org/archive/1948/05/0033206">article by W.H.Auden</a>, published in Harpers in 1948: "The guilty vicarage: <span style="font-style:italic;">Notes on the detective story, by an addict</span>" It's a wonderful study of detective fiction, which presents Auden's ideas on the appeal of murder mysteries as well as analysis of their principal "five elements–-the milieu, the victim, the murderer, the suspects, the detectives." <br /> <br />Auden says "Completely satisfactory detectives are extremely rare. Indeed, I only know of three: Sherlock Holmes (Conan Doyle), Inspector French (Freeman Wills Crofts), and Father Brown (Chesterton)." I have read all of Sherlock Holmes, and sampled Father Brown. However, Crofts' Inspector French novels, published between 1920 and 1957, were entirely new to me. I was delighted at the possibility of discovering a new detective author, and quickly purchased <span style="font-style:italic;">Inspector French and the Starvel Tragedy</span> for my Kindle. <div> <br /></div><div>French is an extremely intense detective, and there are virtually no passages in the novel that don't directly advance the plot and help him solve the diabolical crime, which is initially so clever that it appears to be an accident. I completely agree with Auden that this is an author worth reading, though there are aspects of the work that are somewhat dated. <br /> <br />Of course as I read I was looking for the theme I always check in detective fiction: how does the author use food in his narrative? Unlike some of my favorites, Crofts offers no description of what Inspector French eats of of who cooks it for him. This is consistent with the intensity of the narrative. <span style="font-style:italic;">Inspector French and the Starvel Tragedy</span> has nothing more detailed than "after breakfast he stood in the hotel coffee room" (p. 72), or "starting out with a stick in his hand and a packet of sandwiches in his pocket" (p. 99), or "at the hotel he dined, and ... asked for a packet of sandwiches" (p. 157) True to the detective writers' commitment that no detail can be left without follow-up, when French takes sandwiches with him you usually hear about when he ate them: "In the small hours he ate his sandwiches, and then he had to fight an overwhelming desire for sleep." (p. 158) <br /> <br />I find it interesting that despite the seeming lack of interest in the details of what French ate, the author uses these meals and snacks just the way that other authors do: to punctuate the days of detecting and contribute to the reader's sense of time passing. Perhaps there is more expansive food description in later books, but that would represent a change in this intensity. <br /> <br />I found Auden's description of Inspector French especially interesting. Auden says: <br /><blockquote>"His class and culture are the natural ones for a Scotland Yard inspector. (The old Oxonian Inspector is insufferable.) His motive is love of duty. Holmes detects for his own sake and shows the maximum indifference to all feelings except a negative fear of his own. French detects for the sake of the innocent members of society, and is indifferent only to his own feelings and those of the murderer. ... He is exceptional only in his exceptional love of duty which makes him take exceptional pains; he does only what all could do as well if they had the same patient industry (his checking of alibis for tiny flaws which careless hurry had missed). He outwits the murderer, partly because the latter is not quite so painstaking as he, and partly because the murderer must act alone, while he has the help of all the innocent people in the world who are doing their duty (e.g., the post- men, railway clerks, milkmen, etc., who become, accidentally, witnesses to the truth)."</blockquote>Note: to see all my posts on the topic, click on the label "Food in Detective Fiction" at the bottom of this post.

What did Inspector French eat?

Freeman Wills Crofts is the creator of Scotland Yard Inspector French, who appears in a number of novels. I heard of his novels in an article by W.H.Auden, published in Harpers in 1948: "The guilty vicarage: Notes on the detective story, by an addict" It's a wonderful study of detective fiction, whi…

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This Year's Slow-Roasted Tomatoes

<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXoXquA4Uv5-mAcEAUPRNXuw64h8q1qunEaKYJ5k7otzDPsyC6uBhlcv4-aw1yu1K3yTp7FuFV8dZeyVIM24jy7n0oj7zCwgTYhxd0HTNkD8LZ7nVaBDhf2xo8SgLzqQWlOMj8Hphumre-/s1600/slowtomatoes7622.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5647784031622479730" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXoXquA4Uv5-mAcEAUPRNXuw64h8q1qunEaKYJ5k7otzDPsyC6uBhlcv4-aw1yu1K3yTp7FuFV8dZeyVIM24jy7n0oj7zCwgTYhxd0HTNkD8LZ7nVaBDhf2xo8SgLzqQWlOMj8Hphumre-/s400/slowtomatoes7622.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" /></a>I've made slow-roasted tomatoes for the last few years. After a trip to the <a href="http://www.a2gov.org/government/communityservices/ParksandRecreation/FarmersMarket/Pages/FarmersMarkethome.aspx">Ann Arbor farmers' market</a>, I did it again on Wednesday. Above, the ready-to-roast tomatoes.<div> <br /></div><div>I cut a huge number of tomatoes in half, garnished them with fresh herbs (this year: tarragon and sage), salted them lightly, drizzled them with olive oil, and roasted them in the oven at 200º for 12 hours. In the past I have also added garlic, but experience has taught me that it's better to add fresh garlic to the recipes where the tomatoes are used -- I'm not happy with the result of freezing it.<div> <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn9TeYaNYumMNeF5mZgC1_D2ahcmhW6qVuXqLNTvXLG9OtFf4lZDLXyAeo3hStQjk3x_XIirl2CDn2S8-AsashyU_mFONTxFzWIip-9aW_4-BF5itHjPIA6BbqFKcdLdR5fZTBFa_Nokfb/s1600/slowtomatoes7626.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5647784026130583506" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn9TeYaNYumMNeF5mZgC1_D2ahcmhW6qVuXqLNTvXLG9OtFf4lZDLXyAeo3hStQjk3x_XIirl2CDn2S8-AsashyU_mFONTxFzWIip-9aW_4-BF5itHjPIA6BbqFKcdLdR5fZTBFa_Nokfb/s400/slowtomatoes7626.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" /></a>Here are the finished tomatoes. Due to poor planning, I had to take them out of the oven at around 4:30 AM. I was going to leave them in the oven until I got up in the morning but the electronic brain in my stove turns out to think you have messed up if you leave it on for more than 12 hours. "Beep... beep... your tomatoes are ready. Get up now!"</div><div> <br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoJv_YWaHe-Vj0u6sd7HhaILtolOkcefgBzjLLnBxEPQ-atl13Da8NuKY0luiRyxfWhLTuDxcl3DGmiXguLAbWWhye_HIDyln9o0M3Z54ceiOHD6tmM_KAk24U56vgJvMI254DZqZzXeLR/s1600/slowtomatoes7628.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5647784018929754882" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoJv_YWaHe-Vj0u6sd7HhaILtolOkcefgBzjLLnBxEPQ-atl13Da8NuKY0luiRyxfWhLTuDxcl3DGmiXguLAbWWhye_HIDyln9o0M3Z54ceiOHD6tmM_KAk24U56vgJvMI254DZqZzXeLR/s400/slowtomatoes7628.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" /></a>Two boxes of tomatoes went into the freezer by 5 AM. That evening, several tomatoes went into lasagna along with some left-over pesto and ricotta, more fresh herbs, and some other stuff. I forgot to take a photo before we ate the well-browned dish, but the photo above shows it ready to go in the oven. I also ate a couple of them on a sandwich this morning. MMMM.</div><div> <br /></div><div>Original recipe from <a href="http://www.theperfectpantry.com/">The Perfect Pantry</a> blog <a href="http://www.theperfectpantry.com/2006/09/roasted_tomatoe.html">here</a>.</div></div>

This Year's Slow-Roasted Tomatoes

I've made slow-roasted tomatoes for the last few years. After a trip to the Ann Arbor farmers' market, I did it again on Wednesday. Above, the ready-to-roast tomatoes. I cut a huge number of tomatoes in half, garnished them with fresh herbs (this year: tarragon and sage), salted them lightly, drizzl…

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