Gourmandise or Gluttony?

I just read "<a href="http://www.theparisreview.org/blog/2011/04/04/the-gourmand/">The Gourmand</a>" by Mark Gimein, illustrated and with a strong contribution by artist Charlotta Westergren. The author and illustrator link several main themes. First, they ask whether the concept of a gourmand in Brillat Savarin and other historic sources applies to modern times. In the past, straightfoward love of food was often held in contrast to self-advertising through luxurious and ostentatious meals at rich people's tables. In particular, the two authors explore the question in the context of the new book <span style="font-style: italic;">Modernist Cuisine</span> by Nathan Myhrvold. What I find most interesting is their discussion of classic still-life painting as a critique of gluttony, display of wealth, and excess.<br /><br />Gimein writes:<blockquote>"Brillat-Savarin’s grand meals are supposed to test the ability to experience the sublime, but they are also grievously expensive. Even the guest who can’t tell truffles from Cocoa Puffs notices that. The promise of the banquet is transcendence, but its subject is the patron’s wealth." <p>"In this, Charlotta offers, the Brillat-Savarin banquet is like the classic still life. It’s not for nothing that the Flemish still lifes of masters ... are filled with lemons—the priciest exotic fruit of the time. With the still life the patron shows off his possessions. Or, more subtly, he shows off the richness of his material life while also alleging his indifference to it... . Either way, the invitation of the still life is to transcend luxury by contemplating a luxuriously painted canvas."</p></blockquote><p></p>And about Myrvold, whose books themselves are unusually expensive? The author's view:<br /><blockquote>"In the many interviews that have been published with Nathan Myhrvold, my favorite quote is one that he gave to <em>Time</em> magazine: 'I want to empower people to make a better roast chicken.' While <em>Modernist Cuisine</em> does have instructions on how to cook a chicken (with a <em>sous vide</em> machine), this seems to me roughly like a Northern Renaissance burgher insisting that he is just commissioning an illustration of how to polish a goblet or slice an orange. Does anyone believe this?"</blockquote><br />The illustrations are especially well-suited to the points made about modern taste. From the article, here is a still life by Charlotta Westergren, illustrating the idea that "the pig is a symbol of gluttony, butterflies mark the transcendence of the soul."<br /><br /><img alt="Still Life" src="http://www.theparisreview.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/Charlotta-Westergren-La-Nature_Morte-Au-Cochon_BLOG.jpg" /><br /><div style="text-align: right;"><span style="font-size:85%;">-- Charlotta Westergren, <em>La Nature Morte au Cochon</em>, 2008, oil and car paint on aluminum, 24 in. x 54 in.</span></div>

Gourmandise or Gluttony?

I just read " The Gourmand " by Mark Gimein, illustrated and with a strong contribution by artist Charlotta Westergren. The author...

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Is Pez Food?

<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg7z2loHk8DH4ZVisgbPWg_Ly06RxS7qa6wR5017rHi65ilnDQe8sToL_yQovVrKJ9Grvz6Z5TbhJ4l9qUQKvvqsBDcQEjo6PsqE6zdDVgIYoYhauWc_N4Ia5GTFe41zQT4Kdwd1XdqrKL/s1600/royal-pez.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5593277501881170114" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg7z2loHk8DH4ZVisgbPWg_Ly06RxS7qa6wR5017rHi65ilnDQe8sToL_yQovVrKJ9Grvz6Z5TbhJ4l9qUQKvvqsBDcQEjo6PsqE6zdDVgIYoYhauWc_N4Ia5GTFe41zQT4Kdwd1XdqrKL/s400/royal-pez.jpg" style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 384px;" /></a><br />The other day I posted about <a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2011/03/royal-wedding.html">Royal Wedding</a> food-themed memorabilia. But this one is even more delicious. As it were. The Pez company has made exactly one set and is auctioning them for charity. <a href="http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/gossip/2011/04/kate-william-pez-dispensers-royal-wedding-auction.html">See this</a>.<br /><br />PS -- I remember the Pez Dispenser fad that raged when I was in seventh grade. And a re-run in the 1990s. Did Pez ever go out of style?

Is Pez Food?

The other day I posted about Royal Wedding food-themed memorabilia. But this one is even more delicious. As it were. The Pez company has ma...

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Love your work!

From <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/06/business/06pringles.html?_r=1&hp">an article</a> about the sale today of the Pringles Potato Chip brand:<br /><blockquote style="color: rgb(204, 153, 51);">"The creator of the famous Pringles can was so proud of his invention that he asked that his ashes be buried in one."</blockquote>His family stopped by Walgreen's on the way to the funeral. They decided on a can of original flavor. The article didn't say what they did with the potato chips.<br /><br />Wow!

Love your work!

From an article about the sale today of the Pringles Potato Chip brand: "The creator of the famous Pringles can was so proud of his in...

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"Serve the People"

<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvUXJlLFegd32KPaw4c83YLe4US0GCrL64mYW2PvGT2UzHDBnVNAPLmvyjbD3xisJjBj3FOrvKvsI5VnF1JEwu5TOfXUa4644PEBNhq1xMtir-VJIvSWwr2DCS4QQn-uM836V7ygk-Cwpz/s1600/lin-liu.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5592433317382850514" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvUXJlLFegd32KPaw4c83YLe4US0GCrL64mYW2PvGT2UzHDBnVNAPLmvyjbD3xisJjBj3FOrvKvsI5VnF1JEwu5TOfXUa4644PEBNhq1xMtir-VJIvSWwr2DCS4QQn-uM836V7ygk-Cwpz/s400/lin-liu.jpg" style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 262px; height: 400px;" /></a>Do westerners really want to try authentic Chinese food? Jen Lin-Liu's food memoir <span style="font-style: italic;">Serve the People: A Stir-Fried Journey through China</span> leaves the question open as it discusses the opinions of restauranteurs that she gets to know on her journey.<br /><br />I enjoyed reading her stories about people she met. Through these people she introduces you to a history of recent events in China and how they affected individuals in the food business, often assigned to work in food prep or service by the indifferent bureaucracy of the Communist era.<br /><br />I also liked her descriptions of food: "I blew on the noodles impatiently, then risked a first bite amid the steam and burned my tongue," she wrote. "Nevertheless I knew that I was in the presence of the best noodles I had ever eaten. They were thin and chewy: the broth was smooth and slightly spicy. I detected hints of peanut and sesame, which smoothed out the chili-and-coriander flavored soup." (p. 123)<br /><br />She tastes. Then she works in a small, working-class noodle shop learning to grate the dough. She discovers how much strength and energy a cook must exert. Through her experiences she also makes the reader see how different it is to make dumplings or noodles for home use or make them fast and in enough quantities to make a living at a small restaurant in a huge Chinese city. Recipes in the text underscore the way that ingredients are used in each situation -- I may never try one, but they contributed to my grasp of what I think she was trying to say.<br /><br />Lin-Liu differs from most westerners writing about Chinese food because she rarely makes comparisons between American mainstream Chinese restaurant cooking and that in China. Her main experiences with Chinese food in the US were with home cooked meals and family memories of holiday food celebrations, such as moon cakes. At home, moon cakes were a seasonal treat filled with lotus root which is extremely sweet and indulgent. Each cake was divided and shared by her whole family. In China she learned that moon cakes had become a status thing, given as gifts or as bribes (with money or other valuable stuff in the wrapping) -- but never eaten. Poor people bought them from the richer recipients and resold them. <br /><br />The author was raised in California; her parents had immigrated from China via Taiwan. They were amazed when she decided to spend years in China attending cooking school, apprenticing in noodle shops and upscale restaurants, and writing for restaurant guides. The result is a good read!

"Serve the People"

Do westerners really want to try authentic Chinese food? Jen Lin-Liu's food memoir Serve the People: A Stir-Fried Journey through China ...

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Falscher Hase

On our recent visit to Fairfax, Tom made us a really delicious meat loaf. Inside it were hard-boiled eggs, giving each slice a very pretty cross-section. (I regret having taken no photos.) I am a meat-loaf lover -- I often order it in retro restaurants and diners -- so I really enjoyed it.<br /><br />Tom told us that his mother often made this dish, and that it's called "Falscher Hase," or "Fake Rabbit." However, he had no idea why it had this name -- and it's not an Easter-dish, just one that his mother made from time to time.<br /><br />Franz and Rosi, Tom's parents, subsequently sent this explanation of the dish:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj88BSSbzTuoAjrhbrKJ5q_BkJIeUfpgB9JIPTEl0b3LleZA84Kj_QLC-ZipF-Gs0zM6I_-blhFaVearij28hRoYDaThhZK9wl0dwfEpGFA8vekuRUA_TMXhqRa_VolFnjcD4aaCfEpPAWa/s1600/-1.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591315038688016594" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj88BSSbzTuoAjrhbrKJ5q_BkJIeUfpgB9JIPTEl0b3LleZA84Kj_QLC-ZipF-Gs0zM6I_-blhFaVearij28hRoYDaThhZK9wl0dwfEpGFA8vekuRUA_TMXhqRa_VolFnjcD4aaCfEpPAWa/s400/-1.jpg" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 282px; height: 400px;" /></a>Fortunately, our friend Peter made us this translation:<br /><blockquote>"Did you know? In days gone by, many a Sunday dinner had for its main course a so-called false hare. That's a meat loaf put in a form that shaped it like a rabbit which usually had an egg filling and had strips of bacon on top. Very tasty --but basically a hard times dish. Since only a very few families could afford an expensive rack of rabbit roast, along came an inventive lady of the house who came up with the idea to prepare reasonably priced ground beef, shaping it so that it looked like a fine rack of rabbit. And so it came about that the plain meat loaf became a dish that looked proper for the affluent folk."</blockquote>I write with gratitude to Tom for cooking us this great dish, Rosi for being its original author, Franz for the explanation, and Peter for the translation. Thanks, everyone!

Falscher Hase

On our recent visit to Fairfax, Tom made us a really delicious meat loaf. Inside it were hard-boiled eggs, giving each slice a very pretty c...

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Food in Detective Stories

In a conversation today, I mentioned that I had written several posts about food in detective stories, but that the posts were buried among many others. So here's a partial list:<br /><ul><li><a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2011/02/empty-tureen.html">The Empty Tureen</a></li><li><a name="7899325406294648336"></a><a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2011/01/aurelio-zen-eats-hamburger.html">Aurelio Zen eats a hamburger</a></li><li><a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2010/12/commissario-brunetti-eats-lunch.html">Commissario Brunetti Eats Lunch</a></li><li><a name="625818553267015832"></a><a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2010/09/what-did-colombo-eat.html">What did Colombo eat?</a></li><li><a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2010/01/real-nero-wolfe.html">Real Nero Wolfe,</a> <a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2010/08/black-orchids-and-corned-beef-hash.html">Black Orchids and Corned-Beef Hash</a> and <a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2010/01/secret-recipes.html">Secret Recipes </a>(about Nero Wolfe)</li><li><a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2010/02/janissary-tree.html">"The Janissary Tree"</a></li><li> <a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2009/12/murder-with-recipes.html">Murder -- with recipes?</a> about <span style="font-style: italic;">The Body in the Ivy</span> by Katherine Hall Page</li><li><a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2009/12/inspectors-dinner-party.html">The Inspector's Dinner Party</a> about Martin Beck books by Maj Sjowall and Per Wahloo</li><li><a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2009/10/inspector-montalbano-identifies-himself.html">Inspector Montalbano Identifies Himself</a> and <a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2009/06/snack-thief.html">"The Snack Thief"</a> about the works of Andrea Camilleri</li><li><a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2009/12/p-d-james.html">P. D. James</a></li><li><a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2009/11/bitter-feast.html">"A Bitter Feast"</a> and <a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2010/02/reflecting-sky.html">"Reflecting the Sky"</a> (about S. J. Rozan)</li><li><a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2009/03/fabulous-book.html">Fabulous Book</a> about <span style="font-style: italic;">The Last Chinese Chef</span></li><li><a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2009/03/instance-of-fingerpost.html">"An Instance of the Fingerpost"</a></li><li><a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2008/12/what-do-members-of-yiddish-policemens.html">What do members of the Yiddish Policemen's Union Eat?</a> about Chabon's book and some of the borscht-belt food that he invokes.<br /></li><li><a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2008/06/tuna-noodle-casserole-literary-version.html">Tuna-Noodle Casserole, Literary Version</a> about Robert Parker's detective stories and one particular example of his pretensions about food.</li><li><a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2008/09/elmore-leonards-kitchen.html">Elmore Leonard's Kitchen</a> about one mystery where several key scenes take place in the kitchen, and where food is quite central to the characters' development.<br /></li><li><a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2008/04/dining-with-exotic-policemen.html">Dining with Exotic Policemen</a> and <a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2009/10/weird-food-and-not-for-halloween.html">Weird Food and not for Halloween</a> about Chinese author Qiu Xiaolong’s mystery novel <span style="font-style: italic;">Death of a Red Heroine</span> and the exotic foods eaten by the detective, including snake.<br /></li><li><a href="http://maetravels.blogspot.com/2008/10/tony-hillerman.html">Tony Hillerman</a> (link to his obituary)</li><li style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">and <a href="http://blog.thejurorinvestigates.com/categories/Jury%20Duty%20Food.aspx">my guest posts</a> at the blog "The Hanged Juror" about Hillerman, Agatha Christie, and others.</li></ul>Note: to see all the posts, click on the label "Food in Detective Fiction" at the bottom of this post.

Food in Detective Stories

In a conversation today, I mentioned that I had written several posts about food in detective stories, but that the posts were buried among...

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The Royal Wedding

Somehow I started reading about Royal Wedding food themes. The <span style="font-style: italic;">L.A. Times</span> <a href="http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/dailydish/2011/03/how-to-throw-a-royal-wedding-party-canape-recipes-from-the-la-times-test-kitchen.html">Daily Dish blog</a> reports that 10,000 canapes will be served, and offers recipes in case you want to have a party to celebrate the wedding. Their <a href="http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo-royal-wedding-canapes-pictures,0,1350341.photogallery">recipes</a> are amazing -- flavors from many, many cultures. Probably better than the real thing. Making all 22 of them would require a nearly regal kitchen brigade, I bet, though a few of them could make a nice party.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKftxe1hGLdUt_syswwWmvEjwslNy5GHm7sYGjgNaYRgt6nUoFaNB9gIzKsrkTlez7ZYjAWas-eATh8tbYsDqa9VUpJUTPSRgsi8yA5kXxFka9Ljn8Ubjt74Tkg4GtObNCwNYCGfDFG1ed/s1600/rich-tea.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589652245672992034" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKftxe1hGLdUt_syswwWmvEjwslNy5GHm7sYGjgNaYRgt6nUoFaNB9gIzKsrkTlez7ZYjAWas-eATh8tbYsDqa9VUpJUTPSRgsi8yA5kXxFka9Ljn8Ubjt74Tkg4GtObNCwNYCGfDFG1ed/s400/rich-tea.jpg" style="float: right; margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 299px;" /></a><a href="http://unveiled.blogs.cnn.com/?hpt=C2">CNN</a> has a general report on wedding events and trends, such as the Dunkin Donuts limited-edition Royal Wedding donut available only from April 24-29. Also <a href="http://www.cnn.com/2011/WORLD/europe/03/26/uk.royal.wedding.cake/index.html">a description</a> of the "groom's cake" to be served alongside the couple's official wedding cake. This will be made from McVittie's Rich Tea biscuits. And for a complete discussion and history of Rich Tea biscuits -- "invented in the 17th century for the upper classes as light snack between meals and impregnating the scullery maids" -- see <a href="http://www.guardian.co.uk/uk/2011/mar/28/biscuits-royal-wedding-cake-william">this</a> at the Guardian.<br /><br />What a coincidence: I have been eating Rich Tea biscuits (though the wrong brand) for a couple of weeks -- I bought them at a grocery store when we were in Ireland. In fact, in Northern Ireland, so they really came from the English realm! I can report that they are not as sweet as American cookies -- in fact, a little tasteless compared to say, Girl Scout cookies. But there you are. The Royal Groom's Cake will contain 1700 of them, as attested by this photo, supposedly:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLTUkoWXEBuUJZ4rla3oMPK7K1aCBYibR6eUZQ5OO-V4udh6WuvrQw_XioBtKG3Q683D2USe0WhbMS7XafMH3AqXlhD2WrtTYrIzC5TQRcOP4NdVTkW5aYSaE6IPRl_nbcZwD1pca2-M6Y/s1600/t1larg.cookiecake.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589653279954261538" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLTUkoWXEBuUJZ4rla3oMPK7K1aCBYibR6eUZQ5OO-V4udh6WuvrQw_XioBtKG3Q683D2USe0WhbMS7XafMH3AqXlhD2WrtTYrIzC5TQRcOP4NdVTkW5aYSaE6IPRl_nbcZwD1pca2-M6Y/s400/t1larg.cookiecake.jpg" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 225px;" /></a><br />The best Royal Wedding Kitchen Item is a Royal Wedding Refrigerator (it's a joke from here: <a href="http://feministphilosophers.wordpress.com/2011/03/29/whats-not-to-like/" rel="bookmark"><span style="font-weight: bold;"> </span>What’s not to like?</a>):<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFXrT7Cb2x30qB6PdQur-l36LzA16Vy71DCvrY91aKzOsRdE4WZrOu42N6OwiJnKWyqBGvOoTCDIS4CmmsELny0Z8A1dyHwkunXFSuwH3aKZ56K0O1fXB67X_dwPrg9T9PY4sGVSV5aYYj/s1600/fridge-royal.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5589653784855928050" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFXrT7Cb2x30qB6PdQur-l36LzA16Vy71DCvrY91aKzOsRdE4WZrOu42N6OwiJnKWyqBGvOoTCDIS4CmmsELny0Z8A1dyHwkunXFSuwH3aKZ56K0O1fXB67X_dwPrg9T9PY4sGVSV5aYYj/s400/fridge-royal.jpg" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 234px; height: 400px;" /></a>

The Royal Wedding

Somehow I started reading about Royal Wedding food themes. The L.A. Times Daily Dish blog reports that 10,000 canapes will be served, and ...

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