Green peppercorns are not local

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/5060432432/" title="greenpeppercorns by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="greenpeppercorns" height="724" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4132/5060432432_069e599ccd_b.jpg" width="1024" /></a><br /><style>@font-face { font-family: "Times"; }p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }h4 { margin: 4pt 0in 0.0001pt; text-align: justify; line-height: 18pt; page-break-after: avoid; font-size: 14pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }span.Heading4Char { font-family: Times; font-weight: bold; }p.Hangingindent, li.Hangingindent, div.Hangingindent { margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt 12pt; text-indent: -12pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }div.Section1 { page: Section1; }</style> <p class="MsoNormal">Green peppercorns – the unripe form of black peppercorns -- originated in Madegascar, a former French colony, and from there made it to France where I first encountered them. Some time in the early 70s, my friend Michelle in France served us steak with green peppercorns. She had evidently learned about them on a trip to Africa, and they were at the time popular with French cooks.<br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal">Yesterday, I wrote about some of the goals and limitations of confining one's food choices to locally grown food (see <a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2010/10/local-eating.html">Local Eating</a>). One big advantage of a wider geographic scope for cooking, I think, is that food is a very interesting window into other cultures. Without visiting Michelle, I probably wouldn't have known about green peppercorns and their African-French connections. When I returned home, my experiments with this new spice continued to provide a sense of adventure, at least in cooking and eating. (In her blog Gherkins & Tomatoes, food writer Cynthia Bertelsen touched on this recently. See <a href="http://gherkinstomatoes.com/2010/10/04/is-cooking-necessary/">Is Cooking Necessary?</a>)<br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal">People have been broadening their horizons with new foods for thousands of years. For example, the Romans had spice routes overland and by sea to obtain black peppercorns, which were then distributed all over their European empire. Pepper, oranges, lemons, chocolate, tea -- as common as they've become, these foods give us a connection to their exotic native lands. Eating in a Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Israeli, or even a French restaurant connects us to another place. While it might be silly to buy a Mexican tomato while Michigan tomatoes are in season, a pledge to eat nothing but local food would diminish my cultural awareness, I think.<br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal">Shortly after our dinner at Michelle's home in a Paris suburb, green peppercorns became a sort of fad among American cooking magazines and newspaper columns, and I collected several recipes using them. However, green peppercorns seem to have lost their popular edge recently. Last month I wanted to revisit some of those green peppercorn recipes, and could not find the kind I like in any local food shops (not even Zingerman's had the little cans or jars of green peppercorns in brine), so I bought a dozen cans from amazon.com. And I've been trying both old and new recipes, and giving my surplus cans to friends.<br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Two of my retro recipes from the seventies:</p> <h4><br /></h4><h4>Michelle's Steak with Green Peppercorns</h4> <p class="MsoNormal">Broil or charcoal grill a steak. For each person allow about 6 oz of meat, and for each one, allow 1/2 tablespoon butter and 1 tsp. green peppercorns. In a mortar, crush the green peppercorns. (Green peppercorns are often preserved in vinegar or brine. In this form, they are rather soft: to use them, you normally start by draining and then crushing them in a mortar.) Add a few drops of cognac and mash. Then cream in the butter. Optionally add 1 tsp. French Dijon mustard such as Maille brand mustard. Spread the butter mixture on each steak, and serve quickly before all the butter melts.<br /></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br /></p> <h4>Pork Chops with Mustard and Green Peppercorn Sauce</h4> 8 center-cut pork chops, about 1/2 lb. each <br />1/2 c. flour <br />1 tsp. paprika<br />1 Tbs. oil <br />2/3 c. finely diced carrots <br />1 bay leaf<br />2/3 c. finely diced onion <br />1 clove garlic, finely chopped <br />1 sprig fresh thyme or 1/2 tsp. dried<br />1 c. dry white wine <br />1 c. chicken broth<br />1 Tbs. Dijon mustard<br />1 Tbs. finely chopped parsley<br />1 Tbs. green peppercorns<br />2 Tbs. capers<br />Sprinkle the chops on both sides with salt and pepper to taste. Dredge in a mixture of the flour and paprika. Heat the oil in a heavy skillet and brown the chops, about 5 min to a side. Pour off fat and sprinkle chops with onion, carrots, garlic, bay leaf, thyme. Add wine and broth and cover. Cook over low heat 1 hour (for the newer, leaner pork, probably a shorter cooking time -- I last made this in the seventies and pork has changed). Remove chops. Stir mustard into pan drippings and bring just to boil, but do not boil. Add remaining ingredients and pour sauce over chops. Serves 8.<p></p> <h4>Other Uses for Green Peppercorns</h4> <ul><li>Add green peppercorns to vinaigrette dressing – crush a tsp. of peppercorns with salt, pepper, and mustard, then add 2 parts olive oil to 1 part wine vinegar; wisk together. Toss with green salad, tomatoes, or avocados.<br /></li><li>Use them with white wine, for poaching fish fillets. Make a poaching liquid by simmering wine and water with green peppercorns and some dried or fresh herbs like parsley or tarragon. After poaching the fish, finish the sauce with a swirl of butter.<br /></li><li>Crush the green peppercorns with garlic, a bit of oil, and fresh or dried herbs as a coating for a roast (see photo), or you can roll the mixture inside of a rolled roast such as a turkey roast. After the roast comes out of the oven, you can use the coating, pan drippings, and some wine to make a sauce for the meat.<br /></li></ul><p class="MsoNormal">Once you taste them, you’ll realize in which dishes you would like to replace black peppercorns with green peppercorns.</p>

Green peppercorns are not local

Green peppercorns – the unripe form of black peppercorns -- originated in Madegascar, a former French colony, and from there made it to...

Baca selengkapnya »

Local Eating

Support local agriculture. Eat fresher, better food. Reduce your carbon footprint. You can do virtuous things if you accept the promise of local food consumption and become a locavore. If we were all locavores, eating only what grows near our homes, what a wonderful world it would be -- except that there isn't enough local food for the entire population of most heavily populated areas. I've been thinking about the limitations and benefits of eating locally without going to extremes. I'm trying to understand the broader implications and tradeoffs.<br /><br />The most obvious sacrifice for people who commit to all or mainly local eating in harsh climates like Michigan is that only a limited selection of foods is available. Dairies operate year-around. Most vegetables and fruits are seasonal and perishable, but you can store potatoes and onions for winter pretty easily. If you have a big freezer, you can store local spring lamb and summer chicken. If you have plenty of time, you can smoke your own bacon, make jam, and freeze or can vegetables or fruit (though I've always wondered, what is the advantage of home-canning or freezing over good-quality commercial products?) I don't know if you can get enough grain products in all local markets -- if you are strictly local, that's another compromise. In any case, by March you'll be in the traditional hard place that used to be the lot of everyone who lived in the north.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/4979415307/" title="market4065 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="market4065" height="180" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4144/4979415307_d60859d8e1_m.jpg" width="240" /></a><br /><br />And, as everyone knows, up here in the north we don't grow chocolate, tropical fruit, coffee, olives, and so on. As totally committed locavores, we'll be back to hoping Santa will put an orange or a little package of dates in the toe of our stockings, as he did in the 19th century before railroads brought abundant citrus fruit to northern climates. Are people sure they want to return to the past so totally?<br /><br />The limitations are easy to see, but the benefits you get from sticking to local food (and rejecting what seemed like such miracles to our ancestors: orange juice every day!) are also in need of analysis.<br /><br />If you seek good-tasting local food, you will find it: no question, if you need to rediscover seasonal produce, you have a treat in store. An in-season Michigan apple of a variety you like always beats a Washington Delicious apple, which may have spent months in a warehouse. The trade-off comes in winter when lots of non-local food will tempt you. Olives, coffee, imported wine, pecans, and chocolate taste just as good in Michigan as they do closer to their origin. Bananas, pineapples, and papayas might be better if you are close to the trees, but they travel pretty well too. You might eventually find the limited diet monotonous and the winters overwhelming if you commit to a completely local diet.<br /><br />If you want to eat healthfully, you can find good options among locally grown foods. If you buy from a local small-scale farmer, you may find very fresh fruit and vegetables grown without excesses of pesticides and other chemicals. The role of such food in ensuring good health is unproven, but other health benefits might be available. For example, fresher eggs from small-scale local chicken farmers seem to be less salmonella-prone, for reasons that are not entirely understood -- maybe the less-stressed chickens have better immune systems (speculative from various articles I've read). This is another very complex food issue, especially as "organic" is now a government-controlled term dictated by some of the big agriculture interests that the original organic food movement was fighting.<br /><br />Does local food cost less? You might save money if you buy large baskets of local fruit or vegetables at the peak of the season and freeze or can them yourself, but it's challenging, takes time, and has high start-up costs. (I'm not prepared to tackle the economics of raising your own food in your backyard or a grow plot elsewhere.) Also, mass agriculture is often so efficient that its products are cheaper than anything else, even including shipping costs -- if you care about nothing but price, local food will be of little interest to you.<br /><br />When people talk about local food they almost always mean small-scale production, even if they live close to giant industrial farming operations. Certainly, the farmers who sell their own produce at farmers' markets often raise food as a small family endeavor. As a result, you avoid both the ecological issues of mass agriculture and the issues of poorly-treated farm workers. If you buy directly from farmers, you often meet most of the people who were involved in raising your food. If you buy meat from them, they are most likely raising animals on a relatively small scale, avoiding all the issues of feedlots, crowded conditions, waste runoff, pollution of waterways, etc. Encouraging small-scale agriculture seems to be a good goal in itself, even if the products were shipped out of the neighborhood.<br /><br />A big claim for local food is its smaller "carbon footprint" -- that is, the amount of carbon emissions produced to grow it and bring it to your table. A local tomato (for instance) might have a lower carbon footprint than a Mexican tomato that made a long diesel-fueled and refrigerated trek across the continent. But if the local weather isn't good and the local tomato grew in an artificially heated greenhouse, maybe not so much. Compare local apples with distantly-grown oranges (or with bananas or papayas) and you are in tricky territory. Compare emissions from organic farming to those from conventional agriculture and <a href="http://freakonomics.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/06/02/organic-agriculture-a-solution-to-global-warming/?scp=14&sq=calculate%20carbon%20footprint&st=cse">there are many problems</a>. Food writers have expended reams of paper (or whatever the electronic equivalent is) debating whether local food is generally better for the global environment and even whether more efficient production in just the right climate can make up for the fuel used to transport the produce.<br /><br />So much for the claimed benefits. They aren't all hype, clearly, though hype may play a role in some of the most flamboyant locavore antics. When a trendy restaurant claims to serve exclusively local food, it might be just a gimmick, ignoring the bigger issues or even ignoring any serious issues.<br /><br />One final critique of locavorism is that it's a luxury for people with lots of choices and plenty of money. Inner city residents in many locales have no conveniently-located food markets of any kind, no access to fresh produce, and at times few options other than fast food. For the poorest people, processed and packaged foods provide more calories than any fresh fruit or vegetables, local or not. Americans using food stamps are often shut out of farmers' markets, because the farmers can't jump through all the hoops required to accept food stamps. (That might become a less important issue as the <a href="http://www.theatlantic.com/food/archive/2010/10/election-2012-newt-gingrich-and-the-republican-attack-on-food-stamps/64074/">Republicans are promising to cut food stamps if elected next month</a>.) Like many food decisions, the choice of eating local food is only relevant if you have money and options.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.latimes.com/health/la-me-food-policy-20101004,0,1799173.story">Some cities such as L.A.</a> are attempting to bring local produce to inner city residents in an affordable way. A task force is advocating "the creation of a regional food system that would increase low-income residents' access to healthy food and outlets for farmers' products while keeping more food dollars in the local economy." I think this might be one of the most positive ideas to come out of the locavore movement.<br /><br />The decision to favor local food -- or to eat it exclusively -- has been widely publicized and debated. In <span style="font-style: italic;">Animal Vegetable Miracle</span> Barbara Kingsolver promoted such commitment describing how she spent a year eating only local food while living on a farm in Virginia. She and her family spent a lot of time putting food away for winter, they were willing to give up many favorite non-local products, and they owned their farm. When Alice Waters lined up local farmers to supply her restaurant with special produce and when she founded "The Edible Schoolyard," she inspired some real changes in the way at least a few people eat at least sometimes. In newspaper food sections and in blogs, the idea is debated or promoted constantly.<br /><br />The message of the locavores has many promises beyond seeking good-tasting food with some sort of fundamental naturalness. Do you hope for less destruction of fragile environments? more responsible use of energy and natural resources? encouragement of smaller farms, fairer labor practices, better animal treatment, or more social responsibility? Opting for local food might seem a panacea for many social ills. Maybe a single idea can't solve all these problems, but I think the focus on local food might be a good start.

Local Eating

Support local agriculture. Eat fresher, better food. Reduce your carbon footprint. You can do virtuous things if you accept the promise of l...

Baca selengkapnya »

Why I'm not pledging anything about food

The food blog <a href="http://www.eatingrules.com/">Eating Rules</a> is the inventor of "October: Unprocessed" a movement for people to pledge to eat only unprocessed food during this month. Food writers at both the <span style="font-style: italic;">N.Y.Times </span>(<strong></strong><strong><span style="font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/10/01/blogger-kicks-off-a-month-without-processed-foods/">Blogger Kicks Off A Month Without Processed Foods</a>) and </span></strong>the <span style="font-style: italic;">L.A.Times</span> (<a href="http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/dailydish/2010/10/yae-or-nay-are-you-taking-the-unprocessed-challenge.html">Yea or nay: Are you taking the unprocessed challenge?) </a>have featured this effort in their food blogs, and hundreds of individuals (bloggers or not) have pledged to make the effort.<br /><br />I respect this blogger for his commitment to encouraging people to eat healthier food. I especially respect his flexible definition:<br /><strong><em></em></strong><blockquote><strong><em>Unprocessed food is any food that could be made by a person with reasonable skill in a home kitchen with readily available, whole-food ingredients.</em></strong></blockquote>Beer, wine, many sweets without refined sugar or HFCS, and many packaged foods are capable of fitting this definition, depending on how they are produced. In addition, he writes: "Maybe you’re not comfortable with my definition of 'unprocessed.' That’s okay, too. Decide what it means to you and take the pledge on your terms."<br /><br />Recently, (<a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2010/10/food-issues.html">Food Issues</a>) I tried to summarize reasons for which people that choose food: taste, health, cost, and concerns of social justice, the global environment, animal welfare, and religious taboos. I believe that every theoretical food decision -- like buying only unprocessed food, not specific choices like do you want a tomato or a hamburger for lunch -- involves trade-offs.<br /><br />Deciding to eat unprocessed food ignores many of the other principles for choosing one's diet. There's nothing wrong with it, and it may even be virtuous -- but I prefer to try to consider more of the tradeoffs when I make theoretical decisions.<br /><br />Some examples:<br /><ul><li>A particular type of tuna may fit a definition of unprocessed but hunting wild tuna may be extinguishing the species.</li><li>If you cut down the rain forest or destroy a wetland to produce unprocessed beef or farmed shrimp, you may be doing more harm than is done by other means of production.</li><li>An egg may be unprocessed but full of salmonella because of unscrupulous farming practices. And an egg labeled "organic" may come from chickens in henhouses that are as crowded and dirty as the henhouses that produce other eggs. Bad for chickens. Bad for workers. But unprocessed.<br /></li><li>Less-processed fruit sugars may not be any better for your health than refined white sugar in small quantities -- maybe a spoonful of sugar isn't the worst thing you can choose.</li><li>A freshly-baked loaf of bread from a local bakery may have more appeal in taste and even in cost than one that's less-processed but from far away.</li><li>Or to quote a <a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/elissa-altman/the-real-l-world_b_747217.html">recent article</a> consider "... the myths that everyone who is complicit in the success of Big Agriculture -- from the Con Agras and the Smithfields of the world on down to the meat market manager who claims his products are local when they're clearly not, just to make a sale -- perpetrates on average folks who are just trying to eat well."</li></ul>Every one of these is a complex issue with more than one reason for making a choice.<br /><br />Playing games with pledging to eat a limited diet for a while also seems selfish. I think the inward-looking view about one's own welfare might detract from awareness of people who can't afford to make such indulgent choices. Recent research has suggested that children with access to good-tasting fresh fruit and vegetables are less likely statistically to suffer from obesity and its many health issues. Children in the "Edible Schoolyard" project showed several indications of better health than similar children in comparable school environments without such a program. Poverty is probably the most important reason why people eat badly, and if you aren't poor you are really lucky.<span><br /><br />I'm not a perfect -- or even a good -- example of social responsibility, global environmental conscientiousness, or healthful eating. But I try to keep a wider perspective, and not get focused just on what I'm eating right now.</span>

Why I'm not pledging anything about food

The food blog Eating Rules is the inventor of "October: Unprocessed" a movement for people to pledge to eat only unprocessed food...

Baca selengkapnya »

Food Issues

Why do we eat what we eat? As children, we learn what we like to eat and what we fear to eat. But growing up, we think of more and more reasons to choose one type of food over another. Every time I buy a can of tuna I worry about what I might be doing to the environment and whether my decision has an impact. Every time I choose between cage-free or ordinary eggs I wonder whether this is important. Do I go to the Farmers Market? Like most Americans, I seek out milk without hormones, and try to avoid beef or chicken treated with hormones. I find it sad that big, dishonest producers took over the term "organic" and then encouraged a diluted legal definition of it, leaving small honest farmers in the dust.<br /><br />As I thought about all these issues, I tried to work out a list of categories for making food choices. Here is my list:<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Taste</span> is the first driver for what we want to eat. A few foods may taste good to everyone, or nearly everyone, but the old expressions "no accounting for taste" and "do not dispute taste" apply to food, so I'm not going to try to discuss this choice.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Health</span> is a reason that everyone agrees on: food should promote good health and maybe even long life. Above all we want our food to be clean and wholesome so as not to cause disease. From there, not much agreement, except maybe that we should all eat our vegetables. Scientific studies to date are are not definitive in telling us what constitutes a good or balanced diet. Can you be healthy if you are fat, or should you limit your caloric intake? Do "natural" foods promote health more than "industrial" foods? How much sugar is too much? Which additives, industrially created foods (like HFCS), genetically modified plants or animals, and chemicals are safe, which are bad, which are truly toxic? Are organic foods better for us? Allergies are real, but fear of them may lead to irrational behavior. Also real: contamination of eggs with salmonella, spinach with e-coli, and Chinese milk with industrial poisons.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Cost of food</span> is an issue for many people. In the extreme, people may even have to put cost concerns above issues of taste and health. All the choices on my list from here on are considered luxuries for people in our society who can't afford expensive preferences, such as fair-trade coffee, organic vegetables and fruits, or net-caught tuna fish. Unscrupulous industrial food producers have made the situation even worse by violating even the most basic laws to make foods cheaper (such as the recent Iowa egg debacle). In other countries, food scarcity is much worse than here.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Social justice</span> is a food issue because farm workers in the US and abroad, employees of chicken-processing plants and similar industries, and many others who work on our food are poorly paid and badly treated. We may have a bad conscience about food insufficiency in the third world, while not being able to affect it through food choices. Similarly, political motivations and machinations have lead to over-fattening school lunches and have made unhealthy food the cheapest and easiest food to obtain.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">The global environment,</span> including climate change, is a major issue in food decisions. What is the impact of mass agriculture, transport of foods over long distances, attempts to grow foods in inappropriate environments, and potential exhaustion of resources? Major environmental issues:<br /><ul><li><span style="font-weight: bold;">Big farms vs. small farms</span> and <span style="font-weight: bold;">eating local farm products</span> instead of long-haul products are key issues for many people. The idea of a <span style="font-style: italic;">carbon footprint</span>, or how much fuel does it take to raise food and bring an item to your table, is an effort to measure the impact on the environment and use of resources. The freshness, healthfulness, and tastiness of local and also of organic produce also plays a role in the choice of big-small or distant-local.<br /></li><li><span style="font-weight: bold;">Pollution</span> from many types of agriculture is another part of the same problem. Pesticides, feed-lot runoff, cattle near the spinach fields, etc. are all recognized dangers both to the environment and to food production. Pollution of food from other eco-disasters is also an issue, such as the impact of the Gulf oil spill on shellfish.<br /></li><li><span style="font-weight: bold;">Genetically modified foods</span> are beginning to be recognized as a danger to the environment -- for example, pesticide-resistant genes recently discovered to be escaping from GMO crops into nearby weeds.<br /></li><li><span style="font-weight: bold;">Overfishing and overuse of the oceans</span> is a source of many possible risks to the world food supply and the environment. Choosing which fish to eat is becoming more and more fraught as we read of the impact of mass fisheries, irresponsible and greedy behavior (such as using huge nets that kill unwanted or disallowed species), and the near-extinction of more and more species.</li></ul><span style="font-weight: bold;">Animal welfare</span> worries vegetarians and also many meat eaters. What constitutes ill-treatment of animals? Should humans cage them, slaughter them, hunt them, or take their milk, honey, or eggs?<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Religious taboos</span> are among the oldest dietary issues. Jews may have the oldest and most complicated set of laws for what to eat, but Seventh-Day Adventists, Mormons, Methodists, Muslims, Hindus, Buddhists, and others also dictate dietary limitations. Some religious thinkers are combining religious food taboos with concerns for social justice, so this might be a more important issue in the future for religious people.<br /><br />I only wish there were something so simple that I could do to make my own food choices easier and address at least some of these problems.

Food Issues

Why do we eat what we eat? As children, we learn what we like to eat and what we fear to eat. But growing up, we think of more and more reas...

Baca selengkapnya »

For $15 at the Farmers Market

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/5036638996/" title="market4205 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="market4205" height="375" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4132/5036638996_9e1199f86d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />Here you see this morning's purchases at the Ann Arbor Farmers Market.<br /><br />I enjoyed my walk around the market and around Kerrytown as well.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/5036021835/" title="market4168 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="market4168" height="375" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4145/5036021835_26313a9ab5.jpg" width="500" /></a><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/5036638770/" title="market4179 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="market4179" height="374" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4124/5036638770_40400d9ddc.jpg" width="500" /></a><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/5036640338/" title="market4166 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="market4166" height="375" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4132/5036640338_7daff63b66.jpg" width="500" /></a><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/5036639620/" title="market4187 by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="market4187" height="375" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4151/5036639620_0b165a998b.jpg" width="500" /></a>

For $15 at the Farmers Market

Here you see this morning's purchases at the Ann Arbor Farmers Market. I enjoyed my walk around the market and around Kerrytown as well.

Baca selengkapnya »

Food from the Scarlet Letter

Hawthorne's <span style="font-style: italic;">Scarlet Letter</span> is a tightly-constructed study of guilt and revenge, as anyone who went to high school more than around 30 years ago well knows. Before the main plot begins -- that of Hester Prynne, her ornate scarlet letter of shame, and the two men she was involved with -- Hawthorne provides a long and rather rambling introduction. He goes on about life in the old custom house at the time he was writing -- the 1840s. His sketches of custom-house workers are rather detailed, and I found myself rushing to get to the main story.<br /><br />Nevertheless, I was struck with his long paragraph about an elderly man with a great "ability to recollect the good dinners which it had made no small portion of the happiness of his life to eat." American food before the Civil War is an interesting subject, and this discourse offers quite a few specific examples of how Hawthorne and his contemporaries viewed the subject.<br /><br />He writes of this old gentleman:<br /><blockquote> <span style="font-size:85%;">"His gourmandism was a highly agreeable trait; and to hear him talk of roast meat was as appetizing as a pickle or an oyster. ... it always pleased and satisfied me to hear him expatiate on fish, poultry, and butcher's meat, and the most eligible methods of preparing them for the table. His reminiscences of good cheer, however ancient the date of the actual banquet, seemed to bring the savour of pig or turkey under one's very nostrils. There were flavours on his palate that had lingered there not less than sixty or seventy years, and were still apparently as fresh as that of the mutton chop which he had just devoured for his breakfast. I have heard him smack his lips over dinners, every guest at which, except himself, had long been food for worms. ... ghosts of bygone meals were continually rising up before him ... : a tenderloin of beef, a hind-quarter of veal, a spare-rib of pork, a particular chicken, or a remarkably praiseworthy turkey, which had perhaps adorned his board in the days of the elder Adams, would be remembered ... . The chief tragic event of the old man's life, so far as I could judge, was his mishap with a certain goose, which lived and died some twenty or forty years ago: a goose of most promising figure, but which, at table, proved so inveterately tough, that the carving-knife would make no impression on its carcase, and it could only be divided with an axe and handsaw."</span></blockquote>Of particular interest here is the emphasis on meat. The old man seems never to have seen a vegetable he found memorable -- or at least Hawthorne sets his focus on meat alone. The <a href="http://regional-food.blogspot.com/2010/09/nutrition-news.html">CDC study I was reading</a> yesterday about Americans skipping the produce aisle may reflect a deep American propensity!<br /><br />Mark Twain's imagined favorite meals receive a lot of attention as primary descriptions of the best food from the end of the 19th century, for example: <a href="http://www.huffingtonpost.com/andrew-beahrs/mark-twain-favorite-foods-comeback_b_737209.html">Twain's Feast: Forgotten Foods Worth Bringing Back</a>. Hawthorn's passage takes us back another half-century, and in recollection as much as another 100 years.<br /><br />Note: I read the <span style="font-style: italic;">Scarlet Letter</span> on my new Kindle, and took the passage from Project Gutenberg, so I cannot provide a page number. What would my high school English teacher say? Maybe that I waited an awfully long time to reread this quite enjoyable classic.

Food from the Scarlet Letter

Hawthorne's Scarlet Letter is a tightly-constructed study of guilt and revenge, as anyone who went to high school more than around 30 y...

Baca selengkapnya »

Nutrition News

"Despite two decades of public health initiatives, stricter government dietary guidelines, record growth of farmers’ markets and the ease of products like salad in a bag, Americans still aren’t eating enough vegetables." So says the <span style="font-style: italic;">New York Times</span> -- <a id="hpwell_health1" href="http://www.nytimes.com/2010/09/25/health/policy/25vegetables.html?hpw">Told to Eat Its Vegetables, America Orders Fries.</a><br /><br />How did they know? I wanted to see the original article and learn how they concluded that Americans were eating too few servings of vegetables and fruit, and that consumption had scarcely changed despite many efforts. I had a terrible time finding the article from the minimal reference information in the <span style="font-style: italic;">Times</span>. Finally I located "<a href="http://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/preview/mmwrhtml/mm5935a1.htm?s_cid=mm5935a1_w">State-Specific Trends in Fruit and Vegetable Consumption Among Adults -- United States, 2000--2009</a>" dated September 10, 2010, in the <span style="font-style: italic;">Morbidity and Mortality Weekly Report (MMWR)</span> from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.<br /><br />The CDC study is a report of an annual survey attempting to learn if the CDC's published nutritional guidelines are being met throughout the country. Random phone dialers call people in every state and then ask them "How often do you..."<br /><ol><li>"...drink fruit juices such as orange, grapefruit, or tomato?"</li><li>"Not counting juice, how often do you eat fruit?"</li><li>"...eat green salad?"</li><li>"...eat potatoes, not including French fries, fried potatoes, or potato chips?"</li><li>"...eat carrots?" </li><li> "Not counting carrots, potatoes, or salad, how many servings of vegetables do you usually eat?"</li></ol>The article is a summary of these results for 2009 with a comparison to prior years. Only slight changes have been detected: "From 2000 to 2009, the overall prevalence of consuming fruit two or more times per day decreased slightly, but significantly, from 34.4% to 32.5%. Slight but significant increasing linear trends for fruit consumption were observed in four states, decreasing trends in 22 states and DC, and no significant change in 24 states."<br /><br />Campaigns to encourage vegetable consumption, repackaging vegetables, and efforts to change children's views and habits have not moved the results of this survey. Note: the CDC goal is "increasing to 75% the proportion of persons aged ≥2 years who consume two or more servings of fruit daily and to 50% those who consume three or more servings of vegetables daily."<br /><br />The article summarizes the various limitations to the conclusions, including the possibility that people without land lines have different consumption patterns and that people exaggerate their compliance with healthy norms. But there it is. I wish the <span style="font-style: italic;">Times</span> would give references/links when they cite articles. But I can't fault their reporting.

Nutrition News

"Despite two decades of public health initiatives, stricter government dietary guidelines, record growth of farmers’ markets and the e...

Baca selengkapnya »