Darwin's Dinner

<a href="http://www.galapagos.to/TEXTS/DIARY.HTM">Darwin</a>, like most early voyagers, ate tortoise meat during his stay in the Galapagos:<br /><blockquote style="color: rgb(51, 51, 255);">During our residence of two days at the Hovels, we lived on the meat of the Tortoise fried in the transparent Oil, which is procured from the fat. The Breast-plate with the meat attached to it, is roasted as the Gauchos do the “Carne con cuero”. It is then very good. Young Tortoises make capital soup; otherwise the meat is but—to my taste—indifferent food.</blockquote>He also described both the land iguanas and the marine iguanas that we enjoyed seeing last week -- and mentioned using the land iguanas for food. (We once tried braised iguana at a restaurant in Curacao -- tastes like chicken.) From Darwin's diary:<br /><blockquote style="color: rgb(51, 153, 153);">We here have another large Reptile in great numbers; it is a great Lizard, from 10-15 lb. in weight & 2-4 feet in length; is in structure closely allied to those “imps of darkness” which frequent the sea-shore. This one inhabits burrows to which it hurries when frightened, with quick & clumsy gait. They have a ridge & spines along the back; are colored an orange yellow, with the hinder part of back brick red. They are hideous animals; but are considered good food: this day forty were collected. </blockquote>I'm fascinated by the term "imps of darkness" for the marine iguanas. One night during our trip, I dreamed about these creatures as if they were from a Grimm's Fairy Tale. The comparison between them and supernatural imps seems so natural.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/12003515@N05/4691600574/" title="Marine Iguana by mesander2000, on Flickr"><img alt="Marine Iguana" height="175" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4068/4691600574_bc1380ae3e.jpg" width="500" /></a>

Darwin's Dinner

Darwin , like most early voyagers, ate tortoise meat during his stay in the Galapagos: During our residence of two days at the Hovels, we li...

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More from "Nimrod of the Sea"

Yesterday I quoted <a href="http://www.galapagos.to/TEXTS/DAVIS.HTM">William Davis's tale</a> <span style="font-style: italic;">Nimrod of the Sea</span> about a meal of Galapagos tortoise and iguana. Later in his story, he describes another night's dinner -- offering the reader a recipe:<br /><blockquote style="color: rgb(51, 153, 153);">Heartily refreshed by the drink, we built a fire under the branches of a tree of fragrant foliage out of wood whose smoke was incense, and we toasted great slices of the terrapin liver, which is sweeter than the almond. This dainty, served on our excellent ship-bread, made a feast fit for a prince. Our cookery was entirely novel; and as it may happen that the reader one day will be enabled to obtain two pieces of lava and a pound slice from the tenderloin of a four-hundred-pound terrapin, I will let him into the secret. Place two such pieces of lava, with spoon-like cavities to catch the gravy, before the blazing fire, until they become frying hot. Then place the meat upon the stone with the largest cavity; lay a piece of sweet fat on top, sprinkling a little salt over it, and cover all with the second lump of lava. In a short time you will have a dish that none but good whalemen or honest landsmen deserve to eat. Having thus dined, and lighted out pipes, we threw ourselves at length on the bosom of our kingdom, and were willing that crowned kings of earth should draw up to dull mahogany, and eat the best of the coarse fare their possessions afforded; better, we thought condescendingly, that they should eat salmon and venison than starve. Another tenderloin from between hot stones supplied us with a night-cap; and after another solacing pipe, and dreamy talk of homes in England and America, we fell into a peaceful slumber, under the enchantment of a moonlight glimmer on the broad floor of an extinct volcano.</blockquote>

More from "Nimrod of the Sea"

Yesterday I quoted William Davis's tale Nimrod of the Sea about a meal of Galapagos tortoise and iguana. Later in his story, he descri...

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Dinner in the Galapagos, 1835

Since our return from the Galapagos, I've been thinking about early voyages that obviously didn't make sure their passengers would dine as if they were in a fine restaurant in any city in the world -- as ours did. I read <a href="http://www.galapagos.to/TEXTS/DAVIS.HTM">this account</a> of mariners onshore in the Galapagos, from the book <span style="font-style: italic;">Nimrod of the Sea</span> by William Davis, of a voyage in 1835.<br /><blockquote style="color: rgb(51, 153, 153);">A somewhat hasty dinner of fried terrapin scarcely interrupted the coming and going of the carriers, and an hour before sunset a boat loaded to the water's edge with our spoils was dispatched to the ship. We who remained ahsore prepared beds of dried grass under the tent, while the cook make a savory mess of terrapin-meat, with the sweet, golden fat, the rich, melting liver, potatoes, and onions. As the savory odors swept athwart my nose, I almost lost heart and appetite in the roasting of an iguana nearly three feet long, and as thick around as a man's leg. As I turned and basted the horrible beast, it was with less and less stomach for the feast.<br />...<br /><br />Luxurious dogs that we were, to our roast iguana and terrapin stew we added the conger-eels, and craw-fish as large as our lobsters, and equally good. At the going down of the sun, a ravenous crew, seated on the convenient backs of terrapin, gathered about a feast to be treated by fork and spoon, not by stupid pen.<br /></blockquote>Our trip was different in every way from the voyages of the seamen and explorers of early days. Protection of tortoises, iguanas, and every other creature on the Galapagos means that the only local foods are from the few cattle ranches and from small-scale fishermen. Similar thoughts occurred to me as I was reading <span style="font-style: italic;">Moby Dick --</span> when the whalers in <span style="font-style: italic;"></span> caught their first whale of the voyage, the cook was roused in the middle of the night to make a whale-meat dinner for some of the crew, who had strong ideas about just how the cooking should be done. These meats are no longer allowed as food for conscientious travelers.<br /><br />One can view these historic travelers who ate so many tortoises and harpooned so many whales as environmentally unaware, but we may be much worse: all our luxury derives from the use of oil. We fly, we travel in diesel or gasoline-powered taxis or ships, and we drink and bathe in desalinated water. Much of the food we ate was probably flown from the mainland. It's painful to think about the environmental result of our own actions -- currently destroying the Gulf of Mexico.

Dinner in the Galapagos, 1835

Since our return from the Galapagos, I've been thinking about early voyages that obviously didn't make sure their passengers would d...

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Best-Named Cocktail

<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQuoT1JEasMgvIIhg6Pr7zgsroTbg2ZWIbAVO-dTmJhYdgnu_PQw-inMvWp_hC1o1IDz93YkkqE7-l9xH9zALNZPjVri065UKgkyjJJ60G9C6l_FO3o22eGgLfY2mHyAll4EbnCx0N6ek/s1600/cocktail2896.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5478202208693683602" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQuoT1JEasMgvIIhg6Pr7zgsroTbg2ZWIbAVO-dTmJhYdgnu_PQw-inMvWp_hC1o1IDz93YkkqE7-l9xH9zALNZPjVri065UKgkyjJJ60G9C6l_FO3o22eGgLfY2mHyAll4EbnCx0N6ek/s400/cocktail2896.jpg" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" /></a><br />Each day, Jimmy the bartender on the Islander offered a themed cocktail. I did not actually try this one. But I loved the name. Here's the namesake:<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbggOY4HgwoUjj5PhNawhdXizDnuXiYx7-pni2d6D-i8v9nMsVyUubQC9sDvvdDu4sGER5umF8ON0EbaXUFfTBFCqLyl_niNQBD_sTLK8BiHyqMill4ToOQG8H5_ILobppctS_fs4e9LM/s1600/booby0465.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5478203106250557138" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbggOY4HgwoUjj5PhNawhdXizDnuXiYx7-pni2d6D-i8v9nMsVyUubQC9sDvvdDu4sGER5umF8ON0EbaXUFfTBFCqLyl_niNQBD_sTLK8BiHyqMill4ToOQG8H5_ILobppctS_fs4e9LM/s400/booby0465.jpg" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 268px;" /></a>Blue Footed Booby<br /></div>

Best-Named Cocktail

Each day, Jimmy the bartender on the Islander offered a themed cocktail. I did not actually try this one. But I loved the name. Here's t...

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Shipboard Dining

<div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4qYAtVo7nESx0t61q_KGTxzaWYazlbIivFsuG6Ouzhfn1JqiYyoFIlMjvzY5RCQaHpzfh42dCwAMNumy1vRPtdl1Dl1OOYISr0FaAsar6kpeOcVqov0tPtRE1lQ0uh68yBBTvWeAu_GA/s1600/bbq2528.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5478200193868786114" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4qYAtVo7nESx0t61q_KGTxzaWYazlbIivFsuG6Ouzhfn1JqiYyoFIlMjvzY5RCQaHpzfh42dCwAMNumy1vRPtdl1Dl1OOYISr0FaAsar6kpeOcVqov0tPtRE1lQ0uh68yBBTvWeAu_GA/s400/bbq2528.jpg" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" /></a>Ecuadorian Barbecue Lunch on the National Geographic Islander<br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiznbMLIJ0uLgUEbrovVqSSe2Fb4brTwh6Ug44OWQVKRsBZHUyNcdbulxtLb8-hV0Sg9YDhcnuzRMTT9TMaUAefwJ7eAT1nykMqdZ2TpbwuCMGvyZ5Kg-tMONham9gJR7VrRkAo3r06Lzc/s1600/kitchen2705.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5478199974105296562" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiznbMLIJ0uLgUEbrovVqSSe2Fb4brTwh6Ug44OWQVKRsBZHUyNcdbulxtLb8-hV0Sg9YDhcnuzRMTT9TMaUAefwJ7eAT1nykMqdZ2TpbwuCMGvyZ5Kg-tMONham9gJR7VrRkAo3r06Lzc/s400/kitchen2705.jpg" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 356px; height: 400px;" /></a>The Head Chef on the Islander<br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZTbK9tygqkkxgtqN9sL-UPZeGUdsMI_MSvEfsEYAw5H_YG9ZaJx9D2Ca9ctBFw-V3oCFscq1R6Zks2yqhxUMHfNAllCdxNqNfgHd5N603W7Mo_mzNv4Rab8Hr8ib959bg5w2OIEZPPW8/s1600/kitchen2707.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5478199966421926898" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZTbK9tygqkkxgtqN9sL-UPZeGUdsMI_MSvEfsEYAw5H_YG9ZaJx9D2Ca9ctBFw-V3oCFscq1R6Zks2yqhxUMHfNAllCdxNqNfgHd5N603W7Mo_mzNv4Rab8Hr8ib959bg5w2OIEZPPW8/s400/kitchen2707.jpg" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" /></a>Islander Kitchen<br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNfO0KoIgj4x-GkDBBx81GQxpdNUdywQld5nmOe6hP_eO2OZjPc1Ah6BHl-EfZNQHSwoJzp-kDdjhQ935gPbIVxp19G9KZi66ilwegbhqNTQv_D7NW2J99WIH-5k1DVGd3muLpTxoPtek/s1600/kitchen2714.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5478199962815049922" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNfO0KoIgj4x-GkDBBx81GQxpdNUdywQld5nmOe6hP_eO2OZjPc1Ah6BHl-EfZNQHSwoJzp-kDdjhQ935gPbIVxp19G9KZi66ilwegbhqNTQv_D7NW2J99WIH-5k1DVGd3muLpTxoPtek/s400/kitchen2714.jpg" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" /></a>Lunch Buffet, Islander<br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Food on the National Geographic Islander was mainly very good -- the dinners, with table service, offered much less choice than lunch and breakfast buffets, and thus I enjoyed them less. The kitchen and dining room staff were all very helpful. The last night, we learned that the pastry chef is also a singer -- the kitchen staff performed skits, and he sang to us.<br /><br />During the week we spent on land, we took a couple of cruises. Here's the lunch and the small kitchen of the SeaFinch, a very nice boat that took us for a quite pleasant cruise:<br /></div></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS8WF6QJaiMDnuUTn4uina9EtyfIhACCVpAEEqr6mkU0uuovzW5Go5kSsHAE9Uc5MNfmbrk7I8XwTmdbhfSfe_TexJ731VomRO3mZR5X0IvxZDFLgEaYyPpiHdmpfM8imkKSAafwTcg4o/s1600/kitchenSeaFinch2440.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5478199471853900754" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS8WF6QJaiMDnuUTn4uina9EtyfIhACCVpAEEqr6mkU0uuovzW5Go5kSsHAE9Uc5MNfmbrk7I8XwTmdbhfSfe_TexJ731VomRO3mZR5X0IvxZDFLgEaYyPpiHdmpfM8imkKSAafwTcg4o/s400/kitchenSeaFinch2440.jpg" style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 299px;" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih7GLPcLTbdiUtJYqhlPV9OmT8lTbvmjRcbZ2n_dwi-2XBtPM3PS4GZ6-MIRWC_Y4rfImmhmtK-8qdBg9DcvyNnkrSdqzBCsfQs8ypMZcwmK6xD9FaKk_JRAkAeiJLpQWj_qGpUKGjtHQ/s1600/kitchenSeaFinch2442.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5478199463999294098" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih7GLPcLTbdiUtJYqhlPV9OmT8lTbvmjRcbZ2n_dwi-2XBtPM3PS4GZ6-MIRWC_Y4rfImmhmtK-8qdBg9DcvyNnkrSdqzBCsfQs8ypMZcwmK6xD9FaKk_JRAkAeiJLpQWj_qGpUKGjtHQ/s400/kitchenSeaFinch2442.jpg" style="float: left; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 299px;" /></a>

Shipboard Dining

Ecuadorian Barbecue Lunch on the National Geographic Islander The Head Chef on the Islander Islander Kitchen Lunch Buffet, Islander Food on ...

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Shipboard Food

Our cruise boat has very nice food, served frequently. When I get home I'll post some photos. Meanwhile, watch maetravels.blogspot.com for a few wildlife photos -- my favorite is penguins.

Shipboard Food

Our cruise boat has very nice food, served frequently. When I get home I'll post some photos. Meanwhile, watch maetravels.blogspot.com f...

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Iguana eating beach plants

<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNKMThGbn8vdOyC8cSddI9s835v18waNJ1KqC4-esDJL90vlCHopgh38OtvpuilQd2oxL3SVrzuqscO_GK0A26901WGzwodOnKiSRsbR9HMZWPUlkHkKK5ME_IQGFqENGWaHtny4X-tbY/s1600/iguana_2389.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5474066492701624066" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNKMThGbn8vdOyC8cSddI9s835v18waNJ1KqC4-esDJL90vlCHopgh38OtvpuilQd2oxL3SVrzuqscO_GK0A26901WGzwodOnKiSRsbR9HMZWPUlkHkKK5ME_IQGFqENGWaHtny4X-tbY/s400/iguana_2389.jpg" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 360px;" /></a><br />The land iguanas on Plaza Island (visited yesterday) eat beach plants, which store water in this season. The plants are very beautiful: some red, some green some with yellow flowers, which the iguanas especially like. Sounds better than their normal diet of cactus to me! See maetravels.blogspot.com for much more.

Iguana eating beach plants

The land iguanas on Plaza Island (visited yesterday) eat beach plants, which store water in this season. The plants are very beautiful: some...

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